Sapi Sono', For The Love of Cows

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Sapi Sono', For The Love of Cows


The high pitched tune of slompret, a Madura small trumpet, usually made from teakwood, burst in the air. The sun spread its beam among the clear blue sky. It was a perfect morning in Pamekasan, Madura, East Java province, to start the sapi sono', a beauty contest for female cows. Unlike the famous kerapan sapi bull race, in this contest, cows are judged for their beauty.

In the backyard of Bakorwil field where the contest took place, the business started. The crews were ready to put on an elegant pangonong -- a colorful fine crafted wood to harness two cows together -- around the pets' neck. Rumor has it that it took a certain time and special spell to put on the sacred pangonong. The scent of flowers mixed with menyan -- incense derived from gum benzoin -- aroma that vaguely floated in the air, strengthening the mystique atmosphere.

Once the pangonong, including the bling-bling accessories around the body was set, the group then paraded around the compound. The tukang tongko alias the jockey danced to the sound of saronen -- the Madura gamelan -- while controlling the cows' steps using rope. A girl danced tayub -- the social relationship dance where the female dancer used to ask male onlookers to join the dance -- en collecting money showered from men who danced around her.


 
Two tayub dancers dance to the sound of saronen
en collecting money from men around.


At precisely ten am, the contest began. Three pairs of cows marched slowly on a 20 meters length grassy soil divided by three columns of ropes to a gate in front of the juries. With the sound of saronen still hanging in the air and the man-in-command behind them, the cows swung their legs step by step.

Apart from the fine appearance of skin, shape and the accessories the cows' wear, which most of all cows had, the juries would calculate moves they made. "Every pair of cows had a 100 as their initial score. Every mistake like stepping onto the rope would reduce their score by 5 points," revealed H Zainuddin MT, 54, the chairman of Sapi Sono' Association of Madura, one of the jury. "The smoother they sway, the greater they score."

Right beneath the end gate, the cows must step their feet all together onto a small wooden platform. "It mustn't necessarily the right foot or the left which came first. What matters most is that they step the same foot together in unison on the platform. The firmest the better," Zainuddin explained.

The accurate time of walk procession also counts. Pair who exceeds or lessens the one-and-a-half-minute time, would reduce the score.

Even so, every participant, including the saronen team, brings home the award. "It is our tribute for them. Because the practical aim of the contest is to encourage Madurese to nurture cow, to maintain the cow population in Madura," Zainuddin said firmly.

Sapi sono' derived from Madura word srono, means to enter, while sapi is Indonesian word for cow. Initially, sapi sono' which symbolized the Madurese politeness and respect used to be held to welcome guests in their home. Since 1970s, sapi sono' was declared as a mass entertainment and held a day before the kerapan sapi took place, usually in October or November after the tobacco harvest.


 
One pair of sapi sono' contestant


Although sapi sono' isn't as famous as kerapan sapi, more and more Madurese choose to take part in the contest. "It's cheaper than kerapan sapi, which is rich men's hobby, while sapi sono' is accessible by all ordinary Madura men," stated H Abdul Ami, a Pamekasan who took part in the contest.

According to him, compare to kerapan sapi that needs millions rupiah per month, taking care a pair of sapi sono' cows only costs around 200 thousands rupiah per month. The price goes to buy shampoo, eggs and additional food and vitamins. "I used to feed them with eggs to boost their stamina," he cited.

But the cost would be doubled if the owner hires a special nurse and adds special food and vitamins for his cows. "I spend not less than two millions rupiah per month to take care of my cows," said H Miftahul Arifin from Sumenep who sent his pair of cows named Laskar Joko Tole to join the contest. "Besides the milled paddy, I used to feed them with eggs, corn porridge and tofu," he mentioned number of vitamins his cows had.

But still, maintaining sapi sono' cows is way cheaper than kerapan bulls. Because, while sapi sono cows only earn a bucket of porridge made from milled paddy, kerapan bulls deserve jamu kuat -- strong vitamin -- contains a blend of tens of eggs, coffee, palm sugar, betel , ginger and wine everyday.


 
A tukang tongko aka the jockey dances before the contest


But the cost gap doesn't mean that sapi sono' cows' treatment is less complex than kerapan bulls'. Like supermodels, sapi sono' cows also had a shampoo shower and massages everyday. "So that they have shiny fur and healthy skin," said Samsul Arifin, 25, the sapi sono' jockey who used to look after Ninis Jaya, the pair's name belongs to hiss boss, H Abdul Ami, for the past year.

"And you don't force sapi sono' cows to work in the paddy field. They mustn't work hard, so that their body would stay delicate and graceful," he pointed out.

To understand what the cows want is also important, added Samsul, so that the cows would willingly follow their master's commands in their daily practice.

"They're like human too, you know," Samsul said with a slightly smile, patting his cows tenderly. "Whenever they feel tired, you should give them time to rest, or food and drink whenever they're hungry and thirsty. You speak to them with love and affection..."

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*all photos by vyara wurjanta